The new restaurant, Graze, which opened on the Capitol Square last July, fits right in with the downtown Madison scene. It’s owned by the same proprietors as, and shares a new location with Madison’s well-known fine dining restaurant, L’Etoile.
Upon entering the building, the down-home reclaimed barn-wood of the Graze entrance contrasts, yet compliments, the crisp lines of the new L’Etoile entrance. Seating is available next to the soaring glass windows, where one can see into the magical white tablecloth world of L’Etoile across the walkway, the walkway separating one’s willingness to pay for an expensive dinner or not.
Graze’s concept is a “gastropub,” in which they elevate comfort foods to a higher culinary level. However, its casual atmosphere creates a gathering place for friends. The restaurant’s name, catchphrase on their website “Graze from local pastures,” and chalkboard announcements on the back wall highlighting the “Farmer of the Week,” all emphasize their support of local food and farmers, grass-fed animals and rotational grazing.
Graze is open, airy and bright, with a great view of the Capitol building. The décor of primary colors, natural wood and raw metal fixtures continue the feeling of being down on the farm and in touch with the land, but with a modern twist.
If you have been to L’Etoile a couple of times, you may have high expectations for Graze, and you won’t be disappointed. The beer selection was good (many regional craft brewery choices), though one may opt for a housemade lemonade-blueberry-strawberry drink, which are refreshing, but have a strange blueberry aftertaste. For an appetizer, the Fries with Garlic Aoli ($5), are tasty and crisp, though not amazing or as “rustic” as one might expect.
The waitstaff was knowledgeable about the food and very friendly, and were able to suggest a few entrées a customer might like. One is the Sautéed Potato Gnocchi ($16), which changes with the season’s available produce, and is deliciously made with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, goat cheese, hickory nuts, sage, and aged balsamic brown butter sauce. It is the perfect fall meal, with a savory melding of different flavor combinations, and the melt-in-your-mouth gnocchi.
Another entrée suggestion is the Bibimbap ($14), which is a Korean-inspired work of art: a bed of crunchy-chewy rice cubes, topped with seasonal vegetables (julienned carrots, thinly sliced radishes, and sautéed baby bok choy), marinated pork, fiery red and spicy gochujang (Korean chili pepper paste), and a sunny-side up egg. Prior to eating, the connoisseur-in-training is to swirl the dish together with chopsticks. The meal is to be eaten slowly for the tongue’s taste buds to enjoy since the Bibimbap is light for an evening meal.
The meal can be topped off by sharing a hearty slice of the Bourbon-laced Hickory Nut Caramel Pie à la Mode ($6), which is delectably rich, sweet, and more nuanced than its cousin, the standard pecan pie.
Overall, the meals are very tasty and fresh, the ambiance is comfortable, and the service is welcoming.
The food is a bit pricey for the quantity. The meal extras are not free, such as the bread basket, which is $4 to taste delightful artisanal breads. However, the quality, flavor, and “feel good”-ness of the experience is worth it.
If you’re in the mood for dining with a good view of the Capitol, supporting your local farmers, and tasting some new takes on “comfort foods” with unique flavor profiles, then you owe it to yourself to try Graze.
GRAZE
Location: 1 South Pinckney Street
Phone: 608-251-2700
Website: www.grazemadison.com
Reservations: not taken, walk-ins only
Price Range for Dinner: $11-24
Cuisine: American “Gastropub”