Fugu is Japanese for “pufferfish”. The dish made from it, which is a delicacy, is very dangerous to eat due to the neurotoxins it contains, and therefore must be prepared by specially trained chefs. Fortunately, this dish is not served at Fugu Asian Fusion, though the fish does help make up the décor of the small restaurant located downtown near State Street.
Upon arriving, food goers are given two large, extensive menus with an overwhelming array of food selections. Unfortunately, pictures or descriptions do not accompany most of the menu items.
The restaurant is a bit chilly since the inner door is left open, and the wait staff may be even colder, but should be helpful enough to take food orders.
Around the restaurant is bamboo wallpaper and green-painted air-ducts adorned with vegetation – somewhat kitschy, but fun. The place gets rather busy, and many diners share their dinner choices around a lazy susan in the middle of the round tables, making the experience more authentic.
For appetizers, one option is yummy “Fried Pork Dumplings” (six for $4.50), and the risky-sounding “Seafood Soup Hong Kong Style for two people” ($6.75). The dumplings are tasty, and come with a side of soy dipping sauce. The large bowl of steaming cloudy broth is slightly sweet, and full of seafood and pungent cilantro. The taste is fresh and clean, although probably not a house favorite.
A safe entrée option is the “Broccoli Chicken” ($8.50), which is a generous plate heaped with tender chicken strips and crispy broccoli, coated in a brown sweet sauce with a side of white rice. It makes for a tasty meal, but nothing special or different from any standard American Chinese version of the dish.
Another option to be more adventurous is to order “Sautéed Beef Homemade Style” ($14.95), which is also a healthy portion of tender beef, and is loaded with red chiles and Sichuan peppers that looked like little open flower buds. The Sichuan flavors may be unfamiliar for the average diner, and may not be calling your name if you go back.
A plate of refreshing orange wedges precedes the check, which is the only appealing sugary finish to the meal. The dessert menu didn’t have anything interesting enough to lead one into temptations.
All in all, Fugu is not a particularly satisfying restaurant. Their self-defined “Asian fusion” cuisine is supposed to mean using ingredients and techniques from more than one international cuisine in a single dish, which proved to be a misnomer. Choosing alternative dishes might yield better results. If you’re a daring eater who isn’t afraid of choosing from a vast menu of unknown flavors, and who is interested in big portions for a reasonable price, then this restaurant is for you.
Location: 411 W. Gilman St., Madison
Phone: 608-286-7277
Website: http://www.fuguasian.com
Payment: Credit Cards, no personal checks
Price Range for Dinner Entrées: approx. $8.25-$18.00,
Ordering online qualifies for 10% discount
Cuisine: Asian Fusion
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11AM-3PM, and 4:30-10:30PM