Theme bars are anathema to serious foodies. Like brilliant cut glass in a world of dull sapphires, these establishments vend kitsch and novelty in lieu of actual quality. Once you penetrate the brittle outer gloss of retro flair, one must come to terms with flaccid cuisine and overpriced, malmixed drinks.

Occasional “Happy Days” homage aside, Madison has one of these frequently worthless enterprises. Opposite the Overture Center on State Street and adjacent to the Orpheum, the Icon is a shameless grab at the nostalgia of well-to-do yuppies visiting downtown for their monthly dose of culture.

Under the thin veneer of Marilyn Monroe kitsch and thematically titled cocktails is a quality venue.  Pass the door and the retro image evaporates, giving way to a tastefully clad and softly lit nightspot in the vein of Fresco or Madison’s. The real focus of the Icon is not frivolous kitch, but serious food – specifically, a magnificent array of the small plates known as tapas.

While the menu contains a smattering of Spanish cuisine, the Icon’s culinary productions largely abandon Castillenian tradition in favor of more experimental preparations. The food makes excellent use of the small-plate format, serving a succession of potently flavored morsels too intense for a complete meal.

An Iberican twist on the french fry, the Patatas Bravas substitute the bath of corn oil for a brief sizzle in seasoned bacon fat accompanied by a pungent but palatable aoli. One of the least expensive and most popular items on the menu, the Patatas Bravas make a pleasantly salty accompaniment for a glass of wine or the house sangría.

Amongst the more robust items on the menu is the rack of lamb. In lieu of the dry rub or other more astringent preparations common to this cut is a rich and faintly sweet bourbon sauce. Just unconventional enough to be pleasantly modern without being alien, it’s definitely worth ordering.

The desserts were also worthy of note. The flan, while following the small-plate portion aesthetic, was rich and beautifully textured, and while the caramelized bananas with peanut ice cream were not quite up to the standard of the other items, a modified version of the aforementioned bourbon sauce more than compensated any flaws.

While expensive, the result is a more than satisfying dining experience. Both food and atmosphere justify the price, and the small plate format allows the cost to be controlled. It is worthy of note that the cost can be mitigated by dining at the correct time. Significant reductions in the cost of both tapas and beverages are available throughout the week, and visiting at the proper hour can cut the cost by half.